>■ 


NORTH  CAROLINA  STATE  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 

llll  lllllllllllllll 


This  book  is  due  on  the  date  indicated  unless 
recalled  by  the  Libraries.  Books  not  returned  on 
time  are  subject  to  replacement  charges. 
Borrowers  may  access  their  library  accounts  at: 
http://www.lib.ncsu.edu/ads/borrow.html 


THE 


COUNTRY  DYER, 


AND 


Farmer's  Companion. 


•kick  "kick  "kick  "kit 


BY  MORSE  AND  LATHROP 


*********** 


Printed  for  the  Authors 

######## 

1808. 

1 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2010  with  funding  from 

NCSU  Libraries 


http://www.archive.org/details/countrydyerfarmeOOmors 


Introduction 

In  such  an  extensive  country  as  America,  especially  the  Northern  and  Western  states,  which 
abound  in  Sheep,  the  art  of  dying  Wool,  Cotton,  and  Linen,  especially  Wool,  is  of  great  importance, 
when  the  art  is  suitable  cultivated.  We  should,  not  only  by  industry,  satisfy  our  curiosity  respecting 
the  materials,  but  prevent  an  extensive  and  needless  importation,  and  consequently  retain  our 
money  in  our  own  county.  The  art  of  dying  is  an  useful  branch  of  business;  its  influence  on  the  sale 
of  all  stuffs  used  for  furniture  or  apparel,  has  been  felt  by  almost  all  Europe,  who  have  been 
enriched  by  it,  especially  England. 

But  few  people  in  America,  estimate  the  value  of  manufactured  Woolens  of  their  own 
country.  Till  of  late,  we  have  too  generally  resorted  for  our  cloths  to  the  manufactories  of  Europe. 
With  regard  to  our  own  manufacture  of  cloths,  women  and  children  commonly  dictate  the  colors  to 
be  impressed  upon  them;  but  they  frequently  make  an  injudicious  choice;  and  the  garments  are 
thrown  aside,  or  given  to  Tom,  Jack,  or  Harry,  the  garden  boys,  and  poor  little  Joseph  must  have  a 
new  one. 

True  colors,  impressed  on  goods,  retain  their  complexion;  false  ones,  on  being  exposed  to 
the  sun  and  air,  loose  all  their  color,  and  consequently  the  goods  are  so  much  injured  as  to  render 
then  unsaleable,  (sic).  A  circumstantial  detail  of  experiments,  with  their  various  results,  is  in  this 
small  volume  presented  to  the  country  dyers. 

In  the  following  work,  we  have  endeavored  to  be  plain  and  intelligible  to  all,  who  can  clean 
the  copper1  or  turn  the  reel;  not  only  those  who  profess  the  art,  but  private  families  may  embrace  the 
advantages  of  the  following  instructions,  and  color  their  own  clothing,  which  will  be  particularly 
advantageous  to  them  at  this  time,  if  the  Embargo  continues2.  We  have  also  introduced  into  this 
work,  a  great  number  of  Paints,  Stains  for  Wood,  of  all  colors,  of  the  best  kind.  Everything  in  this 
volume  is  intended  for  the  use  of  the  Farmer  and  Mechanic. 

This  publication,  presented  to  the  Country  Dyers,  Farmers  and  mechanics,  is  the  result  of 
long  practice,  close  study,  fair  trails,  and  unwearied  pains  and  expence,  (sic). 


1  The  third  definition  of  "copper"  noted  as  chiefly  British  is  "a  large  boiler  or  pot  of 
copper  or  iron." 

2  (This  book  has  a  printing  date  of  1 808  on  the  cover  page.)  On  October  25,  1 807, 
President  Jefferson  sent  a  message  to  Congress  recommending  an  embargo  act  -"an 
inhibition  of  the  departure  of  our  vessels  from  the  ports  of  the  United  States."  The  Senate 
lay  an  embargo  on  all  shipping,  foreign  and  domestic,  in  the  ports  of  the  United  States,  with 
specified  exceptions  and  ordered  all  vessels  abroad  to  return  home  forthwith. 

Unlimited  in  its  duration  and  universal  in  its  application,  the  embargo  was  an 
experiment  never  before  tried  by  any  nation  -  an  attempt  to  compel  two  belligerent  powers 
(Great  Britain  and  France),  to  respect  the  rights  of  neutrals  by  withholding  intercourse  with 
all  the  world.  It  was  repealed  on  March  1,  1809,  but  a  law  was  passed  forbidding  all 
commercial  intercourse  with  France  and  England  until  the  Orders  in  Council  and  the 
decrees  should  be  repealed  in  France  and  England.  It  was  not  until  after  the  war  of  1 81 2, 
Jan  19,  1814  that  the  President  recommended  the  appeal  of  the  Embargo  Act  and  it  was 
done  by  Congress  on  April  14,  1814.  (Taken  from  Harper's  History  of  the  United  States, 
1912,  Vol  III,  article  on  Embargo  Acts.) 


The  Authors  flatter  themselves,  that  they  shall  avoid  the  imputation  of  vanity,  while  they 
entertain  a  confidence,  that  the  following  instruction  will  be  of  public  utility,  and  of  service  to  many  in 
the  art  of  dying. 


COUNTRY  DYER,  &  C. 

Recipe  for  the  Blue  Dye,  or  Indigo  Vat 

The  size  of  your  vat  should  be  in  proportion  to  the  business  in  which  you  would 
employ  it.  In  order  to  set  or  raise  a  new  dye,  put  one  pound  and  a  half  of  Indigo3  into  an 
iron  kettle,  which  will  contain  two  or  three  gallons;  then  fill  your  kettle  with  river,  or  pond 
water;  then  take  a  pestle  and  beat  the  Indigo  so  small  that  a  cannon  ball4  will  run  upon  it. 
Add  a  pint  of  urine  to  the  Indigo  thus  prepared  for  grinding;  then  place  the  kettle  on  your 


3  Indigo  is  a  deep  blue  dye  used  to  color  cotton  and  wool.  The  dye  was  taken  from 
the  indigo  plant,  a  member  of  the  pea  family  that  grows  chiefly  in  India.  Considerable 
quantities  of  indigo  began  to  be  produced  in  South  Carolina  in  the  1740's  and  in  Georgia  in 
the  1 750's.  This  industry  disappeared  after  the  Civil  War.  Indigo  is  a  vat  color,  so  called 
because  it  does  not  dissolve  in  water.  Indigo  paste  must  be  treated  with  an  alkaline 
reducing  agent  before  it  can  be  used  as  a  dye.  The  chemical  reaction  turns  the  paste 
yellow  and  makes  a  substance  that  will  dissolve  in  water.  After  a  cotton  or  woolen  fabric 
has  been  dyed,  it  is  removed  from  the  vat  and  exposed  to  air  to  oxidize  it  a  deep  blue 
which  is  resistant  to  removal  by  water.  [The  World  Book  Encyclopedia,  1973,  book  "I",  p 
167.] 

4  It  is  interesting  to  note  the  use  of  a  cannon  ball  in  the  crushing  of  the  dye. 
Perhaps  this  was  a  common  item  to  have  in  a  household  that  was  considering  dying. 

5  The  use  of  urine  is  mentioned  frequently  in  this  booklet.  It  does  not  explain  how 


knees  and  let  the  ball  run  on  the  indigo  till  it  be  ground  to  paste;  observe  occasionally  to 
scrape  down  with  a  knife  the  indigo  which  adheres  to  the  sides  of  the  kettle,  lest  you  should 
waste  it. 


the  urine  was  obtained.  Was  it  from  humans  or  cattle?  I  would  guess  that  urine  was 
alkaline  and  therefore  contained  the  necessary  reducing  ingredient.  See  footnote  3  on  the 
use  of  Indigo. 


If  your  indigo  be  too  dry,  add  a  little  more  urine.  It  should  be  sufficiently  moist,  that 
the  ball  may  roll  freely;  but  not  so  thin  as  to  slop  over.  This  process  of  grinding  should  be 
continued  about  half  a  day.  The  indigo  being  thus  prepared,  may  be  set  aside  for  the 
present.  Your  vat  is,  in  the  next  place,  to  be  put  in  order.  First,  it  should  be  about  half  full 
of  boiling  water;  then  put  in  a  pound  and  a  half  of  pot-ash6,  dissolved  in  water;  to  this  add 
twelve  quarts  of  wheat  bran7;  after  sifting  out  all  the  flour  or  kernel,  sprinkle  it  into  the  vat 
with  the  hand,  and  stir  the  dye  with  the  rake.  This  done,  add  twelve  ounces  of  good  grape 
madder8,  then  with  the  rake  mix  it  well  with  your  dye.  In  the  next  place,  take  the  indigo  you 
have  ground,  nearly  fill  the  kettle  with  warm  water;  keep  the  ball  rolling,  while  the  kettle  is 
filling,  and  let  the  ball  run  until  the  indigo  is  well  united  with  the  water;  then  let  it  stand  and 
settle  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  pour  the  water  that  is  on  the  Indigo,  into  the  vat.  Be 
careful  that  none  of  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  is  turned  off  with  the  water;  this 
must  be  ground  again,  and  more  warm  water  added  and  poured  off,  in  the  manner  just 
described,  until  the  Indigo  is  nearly  all  dissolved. 

Observe,  through  all  this  process,  your  vat  must  be  closely  covered,  excepting  the 
time  that  is  necessary  to  introduce  the  engredients,  (sic). 

When  you  have  poured  in  all  your  Indigo,  which  is  the  last  article,  you  will  do  well  to 
stir  up  the  dye  with  the  rake;  then  cover  your  vat,  if  possible  to  exclude  the  circulation  of  the 
air.  Let  your  vat,  thus  confined,  remain  for  eight  or  nine  hours  before  it  be  opened. 

Half  a  pail-full  of  grounds  from  an  old  vat,  that  is  in  good  order,  might  be  useful  as 
the  first  article  introduced  into  a  new  one.  However,  in  sitting  a  new  vat,  the  evening  is  the 
best  time,  having  all  the  materials,  we  have  mentioned,  introduced,  by  the  hour  of  ten  at 
night.  Then  your  dye  may  rest  till  the  morning;  when  you  should  open  the  vat  and  plunge 
your  rake  from  the  top  to  the  bottom  of  the  dye.  This  should  be  done  with  activity  and 
exertion.  Bubbles  will  appear  and  by  repeating  the  plunges  six  or  seven  times,  if  a  thick 
blue  froth  rises  on  the  surface  of  the  dye  which  is  called  the  head,  continuing  to  float,  and 
further,  if  it  put  on  the  appearance  of  a  darkish  green,  the  dye  may  be  pronounced  in  a 
good  state  and  is  fit  for  coloring.  Perhaps,  the  process  of  plunging  must  be  repeated  two 
or  three  times;  but  remember  every  time,  after  you  have  plunged  your  rake  in  the  dye,  to 
cover  your  vat  closely,  and  to  let  it  rest  for  an  hour  between  trials.  If  your  dye  becomes 
cool,  it  will  not  rise  to  a  head,  though  it  be  good. 

If  the  dye  becomes  cool  it  must  be  heat(sic)  again.  This  will  retard  business  and 
cause  trouble.    It  the  dye  when  first  opened,  in  the  morning  appear  of  a  pale  blue  cast, 


6  (A)  Potassium  carbonate.  (B)  Potassium  hydroxide.  (C)  Any  of  several  compounds 
having  potassium,  ESP  soluble  compounds  of  potassium  oxide,  potassium  chloride,  and 
various  potassium  sulfates,  used  mainly  in  fertilizers. 

7  The  seed  husk  of  cereals  separated  from  the  flour  by  sifting  or  bolting.  In  this 
case  bolting  means  to  pass  through  a  sieve. 

8  (A)  A  plant  of  the  genus  Rubia,  esp.  a  Eurasian  species,  R.  tinctoria,  with  small 
yellow  flowers  and  a  red  fleshy  root.  (B)  The  root  of  this  plant,  once  an  important  source  of 
dye.  (C)  A  red  dye  derived  from  the  madder  root. 


instead  of  a  dark  green,  an  handful  or  two  of  Madder9  must  be  sprinkled  into  the  vat. 

The  dye  in  the  morning  after  it  is  set,  should  be  so  warm  that  you  cannot  bear  your 
hand  in  it  longer  than  one  minute.  If  the  dye  appear  of  a  pale  indifferent  color,  and  a 
whitish  scum  rises  on  the  surface,  it  does  not  work  and  will  not  color;  in  this  case,  the  dye 
must  be  heat(sic),  and  a  small  portion  of  all  its  ingredients  must  be  added;  also  a  handful  of 
stone  lime10  should  be  put  to  warm  water,  and  after  settling,  pour  off  the  lime  water  into  the 
vat. 

Many,  through  want  of  better  instruction,  will  frequently  look  into  the  vat,  to  discover 
the  state  of  the  dye.  By  thus  exposing  it  to  the  air  it  cools,  and  they  will  never  bring  it  to  a 
head  till  they  are  taught  better. 

Of  all  dyes,  the  blue  is  the  most  difficult,  and  must  be  attended  with  the  greatest 
care.  After  the  vat  is  set  and  comes  to  a  head,  it  may  stand  secure  till  employed  for  dying 
cloth.  When  the  cloth  is  ready  for  coloring,  the  dye  must  be  heat(sic). 


9  Since  the  term  handful  of  Madder  is  used,  it  is  assumed  that  Madder  came  in  a 
powder  or  granulated  form. 

10  (A)  Calcium  oxide.  (B)  Any  of  various  mineral  and  industrial  forms  of  calcium 
oxide  differing  chiefly  in  water  content  and  percentage  of  such  constituents  as  silica, 
alumina,  and  iron.  (I  did  not  find  a  definition  for  stone  lime  per  se.) 


If  you  have  sixty  yards  of  flannel11,  that  is,  so  many  yards  of  cloth  after  it  has  been 
scoured,  or  one  quarter  fulled13;  two  pounds  of  Indigo  ground  with  a  ball  according  to  our 
former  direction  must  be  put  into  the  vat,  together  with  the  proportionable  additions,  of 
Potash,  Madder  and  wheat  bran. 

The  dye  should  be  raised  within  three  inches  of  the  top  of  the  vat. 

Let  the  vat  be  hot  at  night  when  you  leave  it;  to  preserve  the  heat,  enclose  the  vat 
with  a  number  of  yards  of  cloth,  that  it  may  be  sufficiently  warm  in  the  morning.  At  that 
time,  when  you  open  it,  plunge  your  rake  in  the  dye,  then  cover  it  closely;  rest  one  hour 
then  plunge  again,  repeat  these  operations  two  or  three  times.  If  the  dye  be  in  a  good 
state  and  work  well,  there  will  be  as  many  as  ten  or  twelve  quarts  of  froth  on  head,  floating 
on  the  surface  of  the  dye,  whose  color  will  appear  of  a  beautiful  dark  blue;  at  the  same 
time,  the  body  of  the  dye  will  give  you  a  dark  green.  This  is  the  proper  state  of  the  dye,  for 
coloring;  or  when  the  dye  ought  to  be  employed. 

The  cloth  should  be  cleansed  from  all  filth;  especially  grease;  for  grease  will  overset 
the  dye  even  in  its  best  state.  Also  everything  should  be  prepared  when  the  liquor  is  in 
readiness.  So  soon  as  the  vat  is  opened,  the  head  or  froth  should  be  taken  off  and  put  into 
a  vessel  that  will  contain  it,  next  the  net  should  be  let  down,  and  the  stick,  or  cross  placed 
about  one  inch  below  the  surface  of  the  dye,  for  the  purpose  of  hailing  (sic)  the  cloth  over 
it. 

In  the  next  place,  the  cloth  is  to  be  taken  from  hot  water,  being  well  drained,  which 
process  must  be  observed  every  time  of  dipping;  hall  (sic)  the  cloth  into  the  vat,  beginning 
at  one  end,  keep  it  open,  till  you  have  drawn  the  whole  piece  into  the  dye.  Persevere  in 
hailing  (sic)  backwards  and  forwards  from  one  end  to  the  other  for  twenty  minutes;  at  the 
same  time  it  should  be  entirely  in  the  dye.  After  this  process  you  should  begin  at  one  end 
of  the  cloth,  wring  it  up  and  take  it  on  the  folding  board,  and  fold  it  over  until  it  become  blue 
and  even;  for  if  this  process  be  neglected  your  goods  will  be  spotted. 

The  cloth  when  first  taken  out  of  the  vat  will  exhibit  a  green  shade;  but  being 
exposed  to  the  air,  will  become  blue. 

Dip  the  cloth  twice;  then  take  out  the  cross  and  net;  put  back  the  froth,  or  head, 
which  was  taken  off.  Stir  your  dye  and  plunge  your  rake  in  it;  then  close  the  vat  for  an 
hour.  After  that,  proceed  as  before,  till  the  color  you  wish  is  obtained. 


11  A  soft  woven  cloth  of  wool  or  a  blend  of  cotton  and  wool. 

12  (A)  To  cleanse.  (B)  To  remove  by  scrubbing.  (C)  To  remove  soil  or  grease  from 
wool  fibers.  (D)  A  cleansing  agent  for  wool. 

13  To  increase  the  weight  and  bulk  of  cloth  by  shrinking  and  beating  or  pressing. 


The  cloth  must  now  pass  a  second  milling14.  In  the  mean  time,  it  will  be  well  to 
prepare  your  vat  to  receive  the  cloth  for  the  last  time.  Put  four  or  five  pounds  of  woad15, 
well  powdered  into  the  vat.  This  will  save  indigo  and  render  the  color  brighter.  The  woad 
should  be  put  into  the  vat  once,  in  two  or  three  times  of  coloring,  that  is  after  the  dye  had 
done  work,  or  when  the  dyer  has  done  using  it  for  the  time. 

After  this  the  dye  should  be  kept  close16  till  it  is  reheat  (sic)  for  another  coloring.  The 
dyer  must  be  careful  in  hot  weather  to  heat  the  vat  once  in  a  month,  or  six  weeks  to 
preserve  it.  He  must  also  take  off  the  maggots  which  will  appear  on  the  vat  above  the 
surface  of  the  dye. 

When  the  liquor  becomes  thick  and  gluttenous  (sic),  by  use,  the  dye  must  be  boiled, 
the  scum  taken  off  and  the  dye  returned  to  the  vat.  At  the  same  time  add  a  little  lime- 
water,  to  clarify  the  dye  and  settle  the  grounds,  for  if  the  sedament  (sic)  rise  the  color  will 
not  be  good. 

The  dyer  should  never  dip  his  goods  till  the  grounds  are  well  settled. 

N.B.  After  coloring  deep  blues,  the  dyer  may  use  his  vat  to  color  various  shades  of 
the  sky  blue,  which  will  answer  a  better  purpose  now  when  his  dye  is  weak. 

Of  the  Indigo  vat  with  urine 

Take  one  pound  of  indigo,  beat  it  small,  then  add  to  it  one  quart  of  sharp  vinegar; 
being  put  into  a  small  kettle,  the  them  simmer  over  a  small  fire,  for  twenty  four  hours.  As 
the  vinegar  evaporates,  add  more,  it  the  indigo  be  not  all  dissolved  by  this  process,  it  must 
be  taken  off  and  ground  in  a  mortar,  or  with  a  cannon  ball,  tin  the  same  liquor;  occasionally 
adding  a  little  urine;  put  in  two  ounces  of  Madder,  mix  it  well  with  a  stick. 

In  the  next  place  put  this  composition  into  a  cask  or  vat  of  urine,  which  will  contain 
five  gallons,  mix  all  well  together.  Stir  your  tub  or  bat  with  a  stick  morning  and  evening  for 
eight  or  ten  days  till  the  surface  of  the  liquor  being  agitated  appear  green,  producing  a  froth 
like  the  common  blue  vat.  In  this  state  your  dye  is  fit  for  coloring.  These  vats  are  very 
convenient  for  the  dying  of  wool  and  woollen  yarn.    Families  may  employ  then  at  their 


14  Did  not  locate  a  good  definition  for  a  kind  of  milling  that  refers  to  a  treatment  of 
cloth  that  has  already  been  created. 

15  (A)  An  Old  World  plant,  Isatis  tinctoha,  once  cultivated  for  its  leaves  that  yield  a 
blue  dye.  (B)  The  dye  obtained  from  the  woad. 

16  Meaning  kept  shut  or  not  open. 


pleasure,  and  make  then  large  or  small,  at  the  same  time  attending  to  the  suitable 
proportions  of  indigo  and  madder,  as  above  prescribed. 

When  the  dye  becomes  thick  and  gluttenous,  the  whole  should  be  boiled  and  the 
scum  taken  off. 

Observing  these  directions,  your  dye  will  last  many  years. 

N.B.  The  vat  must  not  be  crowned;  two  or  three  pounds  of  cloth  or  yarn  is  sufficient 
for  one  coloring  in  a  vat  which  will  contain  a  barrel 

For  Navy  Blue 

The  Navy  Blue  is  a  cheap  and  good  color;  its  tine  is  beautiful  and  it  leaves  cloth  soft 
and  pliable.  The  Indigo  blue  is  expensive,  and  its  color  is  obtained  with  much  care  and 
trouble. 

The  former  being  nearly  as  handsome  will  of  consequence  be  much  more  used. 

To  produce  this  color,  the  copper  or  chaldron  (sic)  must  be  cleansed  and  then  filled 
with  pure  water.  For  twenty  yards  of  fulled,  or  thick  cloth,  put  into  the  copper  one  pound 
and  an  half  of  good  green  Copperas;  let  the  water  boil  and  take  off  the  scum  that  rises;  this 
being  done,  your  cloth  wet  in  warm  water;  is  to  be  dipped  in  the  dye  for  twenty  minutes; 
then  cool  it  over  the  folding  board;  after  this,  dip  your  cloth  again,  for  one  hour,  then  cool 
again  and  rinse  your  cloth  well  in  a  running  stream. 

Now  empty  the  copper  and  fill  it  again  with  clean  water.  At  this  time  you  must  have 
about  six  pounds  of  good  Loogwood  (sic),  well  boiled,  by  itself.  Bring  the  water  in  your 
copper  to  boil;  then  add  your  Logweed  to  the  liquor,  stir  it  well  together,  and  then  dip  the 
cloth  about  half  an  hour;  then  cool,  following  this  process  till  the  color  designed  is  obtained 
-  this  is  a  very  dark  blue.   Rinse  your  cloth  well,  in  order  for  dressing. 

This  color  will  bear  well  the  heat  of  the  press.  Woolen  yarn,  for  coverlets,  stockings, 
etc  may,  in  this  way  colored  to  advantage. 

Thin  cloths  are  beautifully  colored  in  this  way;  by  adding  two  gallons  of  urine,  it  will 
make  the  colors  strong  as  a  deep  blue,  and  with  less  expence  (sic). 

For  Raven  black,  or  Crow  color 

The  copper  is  to  be  filled  with  clean  water  and  brought  to  boil.  For  twenty  yards  of 
fulled  cloth,  put  in  one  pound  and  an  half  of  good  Roman  vitriol.  After  it  be  well  dissolved, 
dip  the  cloth  for  half  an  hour,  then  cool  it;  after  this  dip  for  one  hour,  cool  it  again  and  rinse 
it.  In  the  next  place  the  copper  must  be  emptied  and  filled  again  with  clean  water.  Put  in 
on  e  peck  of  Sumack  (sic)  berries;  if  they  can  be  obtained,  one  pound  fustic  chopped  fine, 
and  one  pound  of  madder;  boil  them  well  in  the  copper,  then  dip  your  cloth  half  an  hour; 
then  cool  it.  after  this  add  from  time  to  time  the  liquor  of  logwood,  as  in  the  navy  blue  till 
the  color  is  obtained.  Now  rinse  your  cloth  for  dressing.  Be  careful  and  not  beat  (  heat) 
your  press  too  hot;  if  you  do  you  will  find  it  difficult  ever  to  restore  it. 

N.B.  Cloth  of  this  and  almost  all  colors  must  be  kept  open  while  running  on  the  reel 

If  this  be  neglected  the  cloth  will  be  spotted  and  unfit  for  use. 

Many  dyers  let  their  cloth  lie  in  copper  and  then  cannot  account  why  the  colore  is 
uneven,  but  if  they  would  attend  to  their  day  they  would  avoid  reproach,  and  their 
customers  would  find  no  reason  of  complaint. 


10 


For  Black 

Many  have  considered  this  as  a  difficult  color  to  obtain.  Various  methods  are 
employed  to  obtain  it:  -  The  following  is  the  best  to  be  found.  Fill  your  copper  with  pure 
water,  for  20  yards  of  fulled  cloth  or  30  of  thin;  after  the  water  is  put  in,  add  half  a  pound  of 
common  vitriol;  bring  your  liquor  to  boil,  and  dip  your  cloth  20  minutes;  then  take  it  out  and 
fold  it  over  the  folding  board;  then  dip  one  hour  -  mind  and  keep  it  open  when  running  on 
the  reel;  then  take  it  out  and  cool  it  over  the  board;  rinse  your  cloth  well;  empty  your 
copper,  and  fill  it  agin  with  clean  water;  have  six  pounds  of  good  log-wood,  one  pound  of 
Nicaragua;  half  pound  Fustic,  well  boiled  together;  bring  your  copper  to  boil;  add  two  pails 
full  of  liquor  to  your  die;  dip  your  cloth  half  an  hour;  take  it  up  and  cool;  add  the  liquor 
prepared,  and  dip  your  cloth,  till  the  color  desired  is  obtained;  then  rinse  your  cloth  in  the 
mill,  in  a  strong  suds  -  then  your  cloth  is  fit  for  dressing. 

Recipe  for  light  and  dark  Cinnamon,  London  Browns 
and  British  Muds 

All  these  are  obtained  from  the  same  pool,  or  dye.  For  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth, 
when  the  copper  is  filled  with  pure  water  brought  to  boil,  the  dyer  must  put  in  three  pounds 
of  good  camwood,  let  it  boil  in  the  copper  fifteen  minutes,  then  dip  your  cloth  for  two  hours. 
Keep  it  open  and  running  over  the  reel;  then  take  up  the  cloth  for  coloring.  Add  as  before 
three  pounds  of  camwood  and  dip  your  cloth  again  according  to  the  same  prescription. 
Then  the  light  cinnamon  is  obtained  and  the  cloth  may  be  rinsed  for  dressing. 

For  the  next  process,  add  to  your  dye  a  samll  handful  of  Roman  vitriol  -  two  table 
spoonsfuls  of  oil  of  vitriol  and  one  of  good  Copperas.  Let  them  simmer  well  in  the  copper; 
take  off  the  scum,  or  filth  that  rises  on  the  dye;  stir  it  well;  then  dip  your  cloth  that  is  colored 
light  cinnamon.  Follow  this  for  half  an  hour;  turning  the  reel  briskly,  that  the  color  may  be 
even;  by  this  the  dark  cinnamon  is  obtained.  From  the  dark  dinnamon,  the  dyer  will  obtaian 
a  London  brown,  by  adding  Copperas  to  his  dye  and  dipping  his  cloth,  from  time  to  time  till 
it  acquired  the  shade  he  shooses. 

British  mud  is  still  darker,  being  almost  a  black.  After  the  London  brown  is  obtained, 
add  the  liquor  of  Logwood  to  the  same  dye,  united  with  a  little  Copperas;  then  dip  your 
London  brown,  from  time  to  time  till  you  obtain  the  shade  designed.  Those  vbarious 
colors,  obtrained  by  conforming  to  the  foregoing  prescription  are  strong  and  good.  Those 
of  them,  that  are  dark,  will  neither  fade  nor  spot.  The  strongest  acids  will  not  move  them. 

N.  B.  In  these  colors,  excepting  the  light  cinnamon,  the  oil  of  vitriol  must  never  be 
neglected.  By  this  ingredient  the  colors  are  rendered  bright  and  clear. 

In  this  dye,  you  may  color  an  almost  numberless  variety  of  shades,  which  exist 
between  the  light  cinnamon  and  the  almost  black,  British  mud. 

After  finishing  the  high  colors,  a  little  bark  of  almost  any  kind  may  be  added  to  the 
dye,  which  will  then  give  you  good  browns  on  coarse  cloths  for  common  use.  This  is 
worthy  the  dyers  observance. 

Observe  in  general,  that  you  never  put  in  the  oil  of  vitriol  until  the  ground  of  the  color 
is  laid  in  the  cloth;  for  if  the  dyer  add  ever  so  much  Camwood  after  the  oil  is  in,  it  will  be 

11 


entirely  lost. 

Observe  after  your  cloth  is  dyed  a  British  mud,  that  by  adding  a  trifle  of  pot  or  pear- 
ashes,  you  may  bring  your  British  mud  to  a  bright  purple  blue,  which  is  a  beautiful  color. 
Rinse  your  cloth  well  in  a  weak  suds. 

For  Saxon  Green 

Take  three  ounces  of  good  Indigo,  pound  or  levigate  it  so  small,  as  to  run  it  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Put  your  Indigo,  thus  prepared,  into  a  small  vessel,  gradually  add  one  pound 
of  the  oil  of  Vitriol,  stirring  it  for  one  hour.  It  may  then  stand  for  a  day,  excepting  tweo  or 
three  times  in  this  period,  it  should  be  worked  in  the  same  manner  by  stirring  it.  After  this 
process  it  is  fit  for  use.  In  this  state,  the  compound  may  be  preserved  for  a  year,  being  put 
into  a  glass  bottle  and  comfined  with  a  stopper  of  Beeswax.  It  is  the  better  way,  to  prepare 
a  number  of  pounds  of  the  oil,  with  their  proportions  of  Indigo;  observing  to  shake,  or  stir 
the  engredients  well  together,  when  you  wish  to  pour  off  for  sue.  Thick  cloth  must  not  be 
dyed  till  it  is  napped,  shorne  and  all  the  nubs  picked  off. 

For  twenty  yards  of  dulled  cloth,  twenty-five  yards  of  baize,  or  thirty  yards  of  thin 
cloth,  take  ten  pounds  of  good  Fustick,  chipped  fine  and  put  it  into  the  copper  filled  with 
clean  water.  Bring  the  water  almost  to  boil. 

Apply  this  heat  for  eight  or  nine  hours;  then  take  out  the  chips,  and  lay  them  where 
they  will  dry;  for  they  may  be  afterwards  profitably  employed  in  common  drab  colors. 

Now  have  the  dye  hot  and  dip  your  cloth  for  half  an  hour  -  then  take  it  up  for  cooling; 
add  four  pounds  of  Allum  to  the  dye  and  take  off  the  filth  that  rises.  Now  dip  again  for  an 
hour;  then  take  up  the  cloth,  bring  the  dye  to  boil,  and  put  in  seven  or  eight  spoonfuls  of  the 
compound  of  oil  of  vitriol  and  Indigo;  let  the  dye  boil  a  few  minutes  -  stir  it  well;  then  dip  the 
cloth  half  an  hour,  turn  the  reel  briskly  and  keep  the  cloth  open.  Now  take  it  up  to  cool.  In 
this  manner  repeat  dipping  and  cooling  till  the  color  is  obtained.  Then  rinse  and  dry  it  for 
dressing. 

Now  without  the  addition  of  any  mor  dye-stuff,  ten  or  twelve  yards  may  be  colored  in 
the  same  dye,  of  a  beautiful  pea  green,  by  dipping  two  or  three  times.  The  cloth  also  will 
retain  the  color  tolerably  well. 


Bottle  Green. 


Two  methods  are  employed  to  obtain  this  color.  By  the  first  the  cloth  is  brought  to  a 
dark  Saxon  green;  in  the  next  place  the  process  is  the  same  that  is  followed  in  navy  blue. 

But  the  color  is  not  bright  when  obtained,  and  is  attended  with  more  expense  and 
trouble  than  the  second  method,  which  we  shall  recommend. 

The  prescritpion  for  twenty  yards  of  dulled  cloth.  Run  or  dip  it  in  vitriol  water  in  the 
same  manner  as  for  raven  black,  then  rinse  the  cloth  and  empty  the  copper.  In  the  next 
place  take  six  pounds  of  good  fustic  chips,  and  four  pounds  of  logwood  chips;  boil  them 
well  in  the  copper  for  four  or  five  hours.  Then  dip  the  cloth  for  half  an  hour;  then  cool  it, 

12 


and  thus  proceed  till  the  color  is  obtained.  After  this  rinse  and  dry  in  the  dressing. 

N.  B.  If  there  be  two  drafts  or  packs  of  cloth  to  color,  take  one  quart  of  the  liquor, 
that  the  dye  may  equally  color  each  packk,  by  occasionally  adding  the  liquor  again  as  you 
need  it. 


For  Snuff  Brown 

Take  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth,  run  it  in  a  copperas  liquor,  the  same  as  for  navy 
blue.  Rinse  the  cloth,  empty  the  copper.  Next  fill  it  with  clean  water,  put  in  ten  pounds  of 
Fustic  chips  and  one  bushel  of  Butternut  bark;  boil  them  four  or  five  hours;  take  it  up  to 
cool,  and  follow  the  process  of  dipping  and  cooling,  till  you  obtain  the  color  designed. 

Hemlock  bark  will  answer  as  a  substitute  for  butternut,  but  its  color  is  not  so  good 
nor  so  durable. 

N.B.  In  this  color,  it  is  the  better  way  to  have  the  liquor  of  Fustick,  and  of  Butternut, 
boiled  separately,  and  put  into  tubs  to  be  employed  as  occasion  requires.  If  the  dye  do  not 
bear  sufficiently  upon  the  yellow,  add  to  it  the  liquor  of  Fustick;  if  the  red  be  wanting, 
employ  the  liquor  of  Butternut. 

By  this  method,  the  dyer  may  induce  the  color  to  meet  his  fancy. 

Having  obtained  the  first  object  of  the  dye,  if  you  wish  to  color  common  browns,  add 
to  it  the  barks  of  yellow  oak  and  hemlock;  boil  them  well  in  the  dye  and  then  you  may 
obtain  a  variety  of  shades  on  the  brown. 

Remember  also,  that  your  cloth  must  be  well  copperased  before  you  run  it  in  the 
dye. 

N.B.  When  you  have  obtained  the  snuff  brown,  by  adding  a  little  of  the  decoction  of 
Logwood,  the  same  dye  by  further  dipping  will  produce  a  London  smoak, 

P.S.  By  running  cloth,  which  has  either  of  the  colors,  in  a  weak  solution  of  Peal-ash, 
it  will  give  more  of  a  red  cast. 


For  Scarlet 

This  is  styled  the  king  of  colors.  But  a  few  years  since,  the  scarlet  was  first 
produced  from  the  dyes  of  this  country;  an  opinion  generally  circulated,  that  the  waters  of 
America  would  not  answer  in  this  dye;  and  also  that  a  vessel  of  silver,  or  pure  block-tin  was 
necessary  to  contain  the  scarlet  dye.  However,  experience  has  taught  us,  that  these 
opinions  are  erroneous  and  groundless. 

The  waters  of  this  country  are  as  pure  and  soft,  as  those  of  Europe,  and  a  brass  or 
copper  caldron,  if  well  cleansed,  will  leave  the  color  as  clean  and  bright  as  any  vessel 
whatever.  Brass  is  to  be  preferred,  since  it  is  kept  bright  with  less  trouble. 

To  produce  a  neat  scarlet  upon  cloths,  they  must  be  milled,  napped  and  shorne,  fit 
for  the  press,  before  they  be  dyed,  as  dressing  will  tarnish  the  color;  beside,  this  method 
will  save  much  dye-stuff,  which  comes  highly  charged. 

13 


After  the  cloth  is  well  dressed  for  the  dye,  for  seven  pounds  of  cloth,  take  one  pound 
of  Aquafortis  duplex,  and  one  pound  of  water;  put  them  in  a  glass  vessel;  add  one  ounce 
of  Salamoniac  gradually,  having  it  pounded  fine,  add  half  an  ounce  of  Salnitre,  in  the  same 
manner,  shake  them  together,  till  the  salts  are  disolved;  then  add  to  the  compound,  three 
ounces  of  Granulated  tin;  introduce  it  gradually,  till  it  is  all  in.  It  will  be  well  to  set,  or  mix  it 
in  the  morning,  then  it  will  be  ready  for  use  the  next  morning.  So  soon  as  the  tin  is 
principally  dissolved,  make  the  vessel  close,  with  a  glass  or  beeswax  stopper.  This  is  then 
called  the  composition  for  scarlet. 

The  cloth  being  well  cleansed  and  wet,  in  order  for  dying,  fill  the  copper  with  pure 
water  -  put  in  three  pounds  of  wheat  bran,  enclosed  in  a  bag,  made  for  that  use  and  tied 
closely.  Let  the  water  boil,  then  take  out  the  bag  of  bran.  Add  to  the  dye  one  ounce  and 
an  half  of  Creamtartar,  well  pulverised.  Let  it  boil,  a  few  minutes,  then  add  tow  and  an  half 
ounces  of  Cochineal,  boil  fifteen  minutes;  then  introduce  one  third  of  the  composition, 
already  prepared,  and  the  dye  will  change  from  a  deep,  to  a  blood  red. 

Now  dip  the  cloth  for  an  hour;  keep  the  cloth  spread,  and  let  it  run  briskly  on  the  reel. 
Take  it  up  to  cool;  add  to  the  dye  as  before  and  dip  for  an  hour;  take  up  and  cool  again; 
add,  dip  and  cool  the  third  time,  in  the  same  manner.  Now  put  into  the  dye,  three  table 
spoonfuls  of  Turmerech,  well  levigated;  boil  a  few  minutes;  dip  the  cloth  half  an  hour  which 
will  be  the  fourth  and  last  dipping;  then  take  up  and  rinse  it  well  for  drying  and  pressing. 

You  will  observe,  that  the  process,  as  we  have  stated  it,  requires  seven  and  an  half 
ounces  od  Cochineal,  five  ounces  of  Creamtattar,  once  ounce  of  Salamoniac,  half  an 
ounce  of  Salnitre,  or  Saltpetre,  three  ounces  of  Granulated  tin,  together  with  the 
Turmerech  mentioned  in  the  prescription.  These  will  color  seven  pounds  of  cloth,  or  other 
goods  in  proportion,  a  beautiful  scarlet;  equal  to  any  that  is  imported. 

P.S.  Grain-tin  is  a  mettle  by  itself;  it  comes  in  various  forms  and  sizes,  from  half  an 
ounce,  to  half  a  pound  in  weight.   It  gives  a  bright  appearance. 

To  granulate  this  tin  is  to  reduce  it  into  samll  particles  or  grains,  which  is  done,  in  the 
following  manner.  Take  the  grain-tin  and  melt  it  down,  over  a  hot  fire;  then  hold  it  about 
two  feet,  above  a  pailful  of  clean  water,  and  by  shaking  the  hand,  gradually  drop  it  into  the 
water.  Then  take  it  out  and  dry  it  for  use. 

N.B.  In  coloring,  be  careful  to  pour  none  of  the  sedament  of  the  composition,  into 
the  dye. 

Take  off  all  the  filth  that  rises  on  the  surface,  previous  to  each  dipping. 

Enter  your  goods  when  the  dye  is  boiling.  After  the  cloth  is  well  rinsed,  lay  the  nap 
with  a  clean  brush,  then  tenter.  After  the  cloth  is  dried,  take  out  all  the  specks  with 
tweezers.  Press  in  clean  papers,  not  hot;  for  the  heat  of  the  press  tarnished  the  color,  or 
makes  it  too  red. 


Orange  Red 


This  is  red  and  yellow  united  -  various  methods  procure  it;  and  it  will  be  bright  or  dull 
according  to  the  engredients  (sic)  employed  to  obtain  it. 

14 


The  best  and  brightest  orange  is  raised  by  first  coloring  the  cloth  scarlet,  and  then 
dipping  it  is  a  yellow  dye  made  of  Termerech  and  Fustic.  It  may  also  be  obtained  by 
coloring  the  cloth  crimson  and  then  yellow;  or  first  dipping  in  Redwood  or  a  Madder  dye 
and  afterwards  in  the  yellow  dye.  However,  this  color  on  woolens,  is  not  much  used  in  this 
country. 

For  Madder  Red 

The  preparation  for  this  dye  is  similar  to  that  of  crimson.  For  one  pound  of  cloth,  put 
in  the  copper  six  ounces  of  Allum,  one  once  of  red  Tartar,  and  the  same  quantity  of  wheat 
bran  as  you  employ  in  crimson.  Observe  the  same  process  in  dipping  and  cooling. 

For  the  next  process,  empty  and  fill  your  copper  again;  when  the  water  has  acquired 
the  warmth  that  you  can  just  endure  your  hand  in  it,  for  every  pound  of  cloth,  put  in  half  a 
pound  of  the  best  Madder.  Be  careful  to  mix  it  well  in  the  copper,  before  you  introduce  the 
cloth.  Then  dip  for  an  hour.  Observe,  at  the  same  time,  that  the  dye  must  not  have  more 
than  half  the  heat,  whcih  would  be  necessary  to  boil  it.  If  the  dye  be  too  hot,  it  will  tarnish 
the  color. 

Having  dipped  for  one  hour,  take  up  the  cloth  for  cooling.  Then  dip  short  dips  two  or 
three  times,  that  the  color  may  be  equal  and  the  strenght  of  the  Madder  recived. 

N.B.  It  is  a  good  method  to  soak  the  Madder  several  hours  in  sour  beer,  or  sour  bran 
water,  before  it  is  employed  in  the  dye. 

Madder-red  is  a  beautiful  and  permanent  color. 


Claret  from  Redwood 

This  color  is  but  little  used  at  the  present  day,  because  it  soon  fades;  almost  any 
acid  liquor  will  spot  it.  Camwood  will  produce  almost  as  bright  a  claret  as  Redwood,  and  its 
color  is  durable. 


Prescription  for  Claret  from  Redwood 

The  cloth  must  be  well  prepared  in  Allum  and  RedTartar.  The  copper  being  filled 
with  clean  water,  for  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth,  put  in  three  pounds  of  Allum  and  half  a 
pound  of  Red  Tartar;  let  them  boil  till  well  dissolved;  then  dip  the  cloth  for  half  an  hour  - 
cool  it,  then  dip  three  hours;  after  this,  cool  and  rinse  well  the  cloth  in  running  water;  now 
empty  the  copper  and  fill  again  with  water;  put  in  nine  pounds  of  Redwood  and  two  pounds 
of  Logwood,  chipped  very  fine.  Boil  them  three  or  four  hours;  then  dip  the  cloth  for  half  an 
hour;  then  darken  the  shade  with  Verdigrise;  the  Verdigrise  must  be  ground  with  urine  to  a 
paste,  of  the  same  consistency  as  the  oil  and  Indigo  for  green.  The  dyer  will  add  about 
one  tea=spoonful  of  the  Verdigrise,  thus  prepared,  to  the  dye,  mixing  in  well  with  the  liquor; 
then  dip  half  an  hour;  then  cool.  Thus  proceed  till  the  color  desired  is  obtained. 

15 


If  the  dyer  wishes  to  color  Redwood  red,  he  must  omit  the  Logwood  and  Verdigrise, 
and  add  a  little  more  Redwood.  Some  dyers  darken  the  shade  with  Copperas,  but  it  will 
not  give  so  bright  a  color  as  Verdigrise;  but,  as  has  been  observed,  this  color  sooon  fades. 
However,  upon  some  goods,  Redwood  will  bestow  a  good  color,  by  observing  the  following 
directions:  -  Prepare  your  goods,  as  before  prescribed,  and  put  them  into  a  brass  kettle 
with  the  Redwood  -  let  them  soak  for  nine  or  ten  days;  by  this  method  you  may  obtain  a 
good  red,  on  yarn,  which  will  bear  washing  in  soap  suds,  which  will  render  the  color  darker 
and  brighter.  In  this  way  women  may  color  their  own  yarn,  but  cloth  will  not  receive  the 
color  equally. 

For  Ash  Color,  with  Nutgals. 

For  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth,  put  into  the  copper  three  or  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  four  of  Nutgals,  that  is,  they  must  be  well  levigated.  Let  the  dye  boil  for  half  an  hour; 
then  dip  half  an  hour;  take  up  and  cool  the  cloth.  Now  add  to  the  dye  a  piece  of  Allum 
about  the  size  of  a  Quail's  egg;  let  it  boil,  being  careful  to  take  off  the  filth  that  rises  on  the 
surface  of  the  dye. 

Now  dip  the  cloth  half  an  hour,  keeping  it  open  and  running  on  the  reel;  take  up  and 
cool  it.  Now  add  to  the  dye  a  tea=spoonful  of  Copperas  and  dip  as  before,  till  the  color  be 
obtained. 

If  the  dyer  think  proper,  he  may  increase  the  quantity  of  Copperas  as  the  color 
darkens;  however  he  need  be  cautious  how  he  employs  it;  experience  will  soon  teach  him. 
where  Nutgals  cannot  be  obtained,  ash  may  be  colored  with  barks.  For  the  quantity  of 
cloth  above  names,  take  one  peck  of  yellow  birch  bard,  as  much  of  white  ask  bark;  well 
rossed,  and  two  quarts  of  sassafras  bark,  boil  them  well  together  for  two  or  three  hours; 
then  take  out  all  the  barks  and  dip  tow  or  three  times  as  in  other  dyes;  then  the  cloth  is  said 
to  be  grounded,  or  to  have  received  the  foundation  of  the  color.  After  this  darken  the 
shade,  by  the  addition  of  Copperas,  the  saame  as  in  the  dye  of  Nutgals,  only  this  will 
require  a  little  more  Copperas.  This  method  of  dying  ash;  produces  a  decent  color. 


For  Slate 

When  the  cloth  has  obtained  a  dark  ash,  either  from  Nutgals,  or  barks,  run  it  in  a 
weak  decoction  of  Logwood;  repeat  the  operation  -  if  necessary,  add  a  little  Copperas  until 
the  color  desired,  is  produced. 

N.B.  By  adding  a  small  quantity  of  urine,  you  may  beautify  the  color,  and  make  it 
much  stronger  and  more  durable. 


For  Forest  Drab 

This  color  is  much  used,  on  cloths  for  great  coats  and  is  suitable  for  such  garments. 
For  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth.  -  Your  copper  being  filled  with  pure  water,  put  in  a 

16 


pailful  of  Sumach  chipped  fine,  one  pound  of  Fustickk,  half  a  pail  of  Alder  bark  and  two 
ounces  of  Nutgals,  well  pounded.  Boil  them  toghether  three  or  four  hours;  now  dip  half  an 
hour;  then  cool;  observe  this  process  of  dipping  and  cooling,  two  or  three  times.  However, 
previous  to  dipping  the  last  time,  put  in  a  piece  of  Allum,  the  biggness  of  a  Quail's  egg. 

See  that  the  scum  is  taken  off  every  time  you  dip.  Having  dipped  once  after  the 
Allum  is  in,  the  cloth  will  obtain  its  ground  work. 

Take  it  up,  and  add  a  small  handful  of  Copperas  to  the  dye,  then  dip  the  cloth  half 
an  hour;  take  up  and  cool;  thus  proceed,  till  the  color  desired  is  obtained. 

If  you  want  a  very  dark  Forest  Drab,  you  must  use  a  quantity  of  urine,  which  will 
darken  it  almost  any  shade  you  wish. 

N.B.  Increase  the  quantity  of  Copperas  every  time  you  dip  the  cloth.  Rinse  well  for 
dressing. 

This  color  is  inclined  to  darken. 

P.S.  By  adding  a  little  yellow  oak,  Hemlock,  or  Butternut  bark  to  the  dye,  and  boiling 
it  well,  a  cheap  and  good  brown  color  may  be  produced,  which  many  people  prefer  for 
common  use. 

For  dark  drab  Brown. 

For  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth,  put  into  the  copper  half  a  bushel  of  hemlock  bark 
and  one  peck  of  yellow  oak,  or  walnut  bark;  boil  them  till  the  strength  of  the  barks  is 
extracted;  then  take  out  the  bark.  Dip  and  cool,  two  or  three  times,  as  in  laying  the  ground 
of  other  dyes.  Then  raise  the  color  with  copperas,  dipping  and  cooling  until  it  becomes  as 
dark  as  you  desire. 

However,  the  dyer,  if  he  pleases,  may  prepare  his  cloth  in  copperas  the  same  as  in 
navy  blue,  and  then  run  it  in  the  decoction  above  mentioned. 


Olive  Green 

In  this  color  the  yellow  shade  predominates,  and  is  connected  with  a  tint  of  the  light 
blue.  To  obtain  this  color,  bring  the  cloth  up  to  a  light  blue;  then  the  compound  of  oil  and 
indigo  in  small  quantities.  Dip  the  cloth  a  number  of  times,  until  its  color  meets  your  fancy. 

This  color  is  bright  and  is  not  so  much  disposed  to  fade  as  some  others;  neither  is  it 
so  durable  as  some. 


Yellow 

This  is  frequently  needed  for  baize,  and  sometimes  to  mix  with  other  dyestuff,  such 
as  greens  and  snuff  browns,  and  in  a  number  of  other  shades,  which  without  yellow  could 

17 


not  be  obtained;  hence  this  color  is  of  importance  to  all  dyers. 

Termerech  produces  the  best  yellow.  For  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth,  put  into  the 
copper  two  pounds  Allum  and  four  ounces  of  cream  tarter;  let  them  be  well  dissolved;  then 
boil  and  dip  the  cloth  two  or  three  times  for  half  an  hour  each  time,  cool  as  often  as  you 
dip.  Now  rinse  the  cloth,  empty  the  copper  and  fill  with  clean  water.  When  the  water  boils, 
having  the  Termerech  well  pounded,  add  four  or  five  tablespoons  of  it  to  the  dye;  boil  a  few 
minutes,  then  dip  the  cloth  half  an  hour;  cool,  and  thus  proceed  until  the  color  meets  your 
fancy. 

This  color  is  bright  and  lively. 

By  this  method  you  may  obtain  an  innumerable  variety  of  shades  that  my  exist 
between  the  straw  color  and  the  full  yellow.  However,  it  is  expensive,  and  not  much 
employed  on  cloths  in  America. 

N.B.  The  dyer  will  remember  the  lighter  the  shade  is  which  he  means  to  give,  in  the 
same  proportion  he  must  decrease  the  quantity  of  allum  and  tartar. 


Olive  Brown 

This  color  is  easily  obtained.  First,  copperas  the  cloth  as  in  navy  blue,  only  here  for 
twenty  years  of  cloth  add  to  the  copperas  liquor  half  a  pound  of  Roman  vitriol.  Empty  and 
make  a  new  liquor  of  fustic,  add  ten  pounds;  dip  the  cloth  two  or  three  times  till  the  color 
rises  to  your  pleasure.  Then  rinse  and  dry  for  dressing. 

This  color  will  appear  dark,  bright  and  lively. 


On  whitening  woolen  cloth 

A  close  convenient  room  is  necessary  for  this  purpose.  It  should  be  prepared  with 
window  shutters,  which  may  be  thrown  open  when  necessary.  A  sufficient  quantity  of 
tenterhooks  should  be  placed  in  the  joists  to  hold  up  the  cloth  while  whitening.  The  cloth 
being  clean  and  moist,  not  so  wet  as  to  drip,  the  workman  hangs  it  by  the  selvage  on  the 
hooks,  beginning  at  one  end  and  proceeding  to  the  other,  keeping  it  spread,  that  one  part 
may  not  fold  on  another.  For  twenty  yards  of  cloth  take  two  pounds  of  sulphur,  grossly 
beaten,  put  it  into  three  or  four  iron  pans  or  kettles,  placed  in  different  parts  of  the  room; 
ssprinkle  ashes  over  the  suphur,  and  set  it  on  fire;  shut  the  room  close  for  ten  hours.  Then 
going  the  outside,  throw  open  the  window=shutters  to  let  the  sulphurous  vapor  blow  off. 
For  any  person  to  enter  such  a  room  before  it  is  ventulated,  he  would  be  in  danger  of 
suffocation. 

By  this  procedure  woolen  cloth  may  be  rendered  as  white  as  fine  India  shirting. 

Stockings,  or  hose  and  other  ssmall  things  may  be  whitened  unter  a  long  tub. 


Blue  Dye  for  Linen  and  Cotton 

18 


To  obtain  this  color  in  the  cold  water  vat,  the  dyer  should  have  tow  vats,  each  one 
containing  about  two  barrels.  They  should  be  about  three  feet  high,  that  the  skeins,  when 
hung  in  the  vat,  may  not  disturb  the  grounds  at  the  bottom. 

There  should  be  two  vats,  in  order  when  one  is  weak,  the  yarn  may  in  the  other  be 
brought  up  to  a  full  color;  and  also  when  one  in  strength  is  employed,  the  other  may  be 
replenished  with  dye-stuff. 

To  raise,  or  set  a  new  vat,  it  should  be  about  two  thirds  full  of  clean  water;  it  should 
stand  in  the  sun  or  in  some  warm  corner  of  a  room.  Put  in  foru  quarts  of  good  malt  and  as 
much  wheat  bran;  from  both,  all  flower  should  be  sifter. 

Stir  the  dye  once  or  twice  a  day,  for  four  or  five  days.  Next  put  in  six  pounds  of 
Potash  dissolved  in  warm  water,  and  one  pound  of  good  Madder;  stir  the  dye  well.  Take 
two  pounds  of  well  chosen  Indigo,  grind  it  well  and  turn  it  in  after  the  same  manner  as  in 
the  wooolen  vat.  Stir  again,  that  the  ingredients  may  be  united.  Now  it  may  stand, 
excepting  it  should  be  stirred  once  in  twelve  hours. 

If  the  weather  be  warm,  perhaps  the  dye  will  begin  to  work  in  fourteen  or  twenty 
days.  You  will  know  when  this  takes  place  from  the  liquor,  which  will  give  you  a  dark  green 
appearance,  and  a  little  froth  or  head  will  rise  on  the  surface  of  the  dye. 

Now  the  dye  should  be  plenged,  with  a  rake,  once  a  day,  till  it  is  in  a  proper  state 
fordying. 

If  the  dye  will  work  in  five  or  six  weeks,  it  will  do  well,  and  last  severla  years,  if  no 
dirty  yarn,  or  greasy  goods  be  entered.  When  the  dye  is  in  a  proper  state  for  coloring,  it  will 
appear  of  a  dark  green,  and  a  deep  blue  froth  or  head,  will  continue  to  float  on  the  top  of 
the  liquor.  Without  these  tokens,  it  will  not  color. 

When  the  dye  becomes  weak,  replenish  it  with  Indigo,  Potash  and  Madder,  in  the 
quantities  before  prescribed. 

N.B.  When  the  dye  is  replenished,  a  quart  of  malt  and  as  much  wheat  bran  must  be 
added  to  keep  it  alive.  The  dye  will  be  fit  for  coloring  again  in  four  or  five  days. 

The  yarn,  in  order  for  dipping,  should  be  cleansed  from  all  filth;  the  skeins  should  be 
let  down  singly  with  a  stick  run  through  them,  which  will  rest  on  the  top  of  the  vat. 

By  this  the  dyer  may  shift  the  yarn,  whcih  must  be  strictly  attended,  in  order  that  the 
skeins  may  equally  receive  the  color. 

When  the  yarn  is  as  dark  as  you  wish,  take  it  up,  wring,  rinse  and  dry  it. 

Perhaps,  if  the  dye  be  rather  weak,  the  yarn  will  require  repeated  dippings. 

There  are  many  methods  by  which  blue  is  obtained  on  cotton  and  linen;  but  the 
above  in  general,  is  most  approved. 


The  second  process  to  obtain  blue  on  Linen  and  Cotton 

The  dyer  may  take  barrels,  or  vessels  of  a  larger,  or  smaller  size,  in  proportion  to  the 
goods,  which  he  expects  to  color.  However,  vats  made  for  the  purpose  are  preferable. 
See  that  the  casks  are  perfectly  clean. 
If  the  dye  be  set  in  a  barrel  cask,  grind  with  a  ball  one  pound  and  an  half  of  good 

19 


Indigo  to  a  paste;  while  grinding,  moisten  it  with  some  lime-water  and  a  solution  of  Pot-ash 
whcih  we  shall  soon  notice. 

Dissolve  three  pounds  of  Potash,  in  an  iron  kettle,  with  three  quarts  of  water.  Steep 
one  pound  and  an  half  of  quick  lime,  in  three  or  four  quarts  of  hot  water,  and  when  it  is  welll 
settled,  turn  off  the  water  into  the  Potash;  then  pour  the  Indigo  into  this  compound  of 
Potash  and  lime,  after  the  same  manner  as  is  prescribed  for  the  woolen  bule  vat.  Let 
these  boil  toghether,  moderately,  till  the  Indigo  rises  to  the  top  of  the  liquor;  whcih  may  be 
known,  by  rapping  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  with  a  small  stick;  if  it  sound  hollow,  the  dye  is 
sufficiently  united.  Now  slack  as  much  more  lime;  add  six  or  eight  quarts  of  warm  water 
and  three  pounds  of  Copperas.  When  the  Copperas  is  disolved,  turn  it  into  the  vat  or  cask, 
which  is  to  be  previously  about  half  filled  with  warm  water;  then  turn  the  compound  of 
Indigo,  &c.  from  the  bottle.  Stir  the  whole  together;  then  with  warm  water  fill  the  vat  within 
two  inches  of  the  top.  After  this,  stir  it  with  a  stick,  three  or  four  times  in  a  day  till  it  is  fit  for 
use.  Perhaps  it  will  come  to  maturity  in  one  day;  however  this  much  depends  on  the 
warmth,  or  coolness  of  the  weather. 

The  yarn  in  this  vat,  is  to  be  worked  after  the  same  manner,  as  was  prescribed  in 
the  other  dye.  When  in  the  dye,  the  yarn  should  appear  of  a  dark  green;  and  when 
exposed  to  the  air  change  to  a  blue. 

These  vats  produce  a  large  head  or  blue  froth,  which  floats  on  the  top  of  the  liquor. 

This  dye  cannot  be  replenished;  when  the  strength  is  exhausted,  it  must  be  thrown 
out.  It  would  be  convenient  to  have  two  vats.  If  one  dye  be  weak,  begin  to  color  in  that, 
and  finish  in  the  other,  whcih  should  be  strong.  By  these  accommodations,  the  dyer  may 
color  when  he  pleases.  This  is  an  expeditious  way,  because  the  dye  is  directly  brought  to 
work;  and  it  produced  good  colors.  But  the  first  method  is  preferable  because  by  timely 
replenishing  it,  you  have  a  constant  dye. 

N.B.  If  this  dye  become  faint,  you  must  rake  it,  and  let  it  settle  before  you  dip  again; 
for  the  sediments  will  injure  the  color. 

To  soften  water  that  is  hard 
or  impregnated  with  Minerals 

Enclose  a  pint  of  wheat  bran  in  a  linen  bag  tied  closely,  put  it  into  ten  or  twleve 
gallons  of  water,  let  it  boil  and  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises.  Any  water  that  is  clean  may  by 
this  method  be  made  sufficiently  soft  for  coloring,  or  to  wash  linen  cloth. 

The  hard  or  rough  water  which  some  wells  produce,  may  be  rendered  soft  by  this 
prescription. 

Directions  to  preserve  dyestuff  from  injury. 

If  this  be  neglected  some  kinds  will  loose  alll  their  valuable  qualities,  others  will 
receive  so  much  filth  and  dirt  as  to  render  them  nearly  useless. 

Woods  of  alll  kinds  in  the  stick,  should  be  kept  in  a  cellar  raised  from  the  ground, 
and  so  covered  that  the  dirt  or  dust  may  not  adhere.  All  that  are  ground  and  put  in  casks 

20 


shoulb  be  preserved  from  the  air. 

Indigo  should  be  preserved  in  a  cellar  and  secured  from  dirt.  Cochineal,  and  alll  the 
other  drugs  for  dying,  should  be  confined  from  the  air  and  from  any  kind  of  dirt  or  filty;  more 
especially,  when  they  are  pulverised.  It  wil  be  both  convenient  and  economical  for  dyers  to 
have  a  number  of  boxes,  or  draws(sic),  in  which  they  may  preserve  small  quantities  of 
dyestuff  and  salts. 

Copperas  is  volatile,  of  consequence  it  should  be  kept  close  from  the  air. 


Of  Shearing  Cloths 

When  the  cloth  is  drawn  over  the  sheer-borad,  begin  at  the  end  towards  whcih  the 
nap  is  inclined.  The  shears  ought  to  move  lightly  and  freely  to  cut  clean. 

There  should  be  no  ridges  left  on  the  cloth  after  shearing.  Some  cloths  will  require 
more  shearing  than  others,  to  make  them  appear  handsome.  After  cloths  have  been 
shorne  once,  those  designed  to  be  nearly  dressed  should  be  well  napped  with  Teasels. 
Some  workmen  nap  when  the  cloth  is  dry;  others  when  it  is  wet.  Either  way  will  answer. 
However  to  nap  with  Teasels,  when  the  cloth  is  dry  is  attended  with  less  trouble.  If  it  be 
well  plained  after  shearing,  it  will  leave  a  stiff  nap;  that  is,  it  will  be  soft  to  the  hand  when  it 
is  drawn  with  the  nap,  and  will  feel  rough  when  drawn  in  opposition  to  it.  When  the  cloth  is 
thus  dressed  it  willl  appear  and  war  handsome.  If  cloth  be  well  napped,  it  will  generallly 
need  to  be  sheared  five  or  six  times;  perhaps  more.  However,  experience  is  the  best 
instructor  on  this  point. 

When  cloth  is  well  dressed,  the  thread  will  not  be  discovered  on  the  face,  though  it 
be  shorne  a  number  of  times. 

Those  cloths  that  are  not  napped  with  teasels,  it  will  be  suitable  after  each  time  of 
hearing,  except  the  last  to  lay  the  nap  well  with  a  jack.  Cloths  in  this  manner  may  be 
dressed  so  as  to  appear  decently.  After  shearing,  plain  well;  this  will  leave  the  cloth  sleek 
and  smoothe. 

For  nice  cloths  it  may  be  well  to  shear  the  back  once  without  napping. 

N.B.  Large  nubs  should  never  be  drawn  out  with  tweazers,  but  cut  off  with  small 
shears. 


For  Black  on  Silk,  Cotton  and  Linen 

For  three  pounds  of  cloth,  either  kind,  take  one  pound  and  an  half  of  good  logwood 
chips;  put  them  into  about  three  gallons  of  water;  then  dip  your  cloth,  or  whatever  goods 
you  wish  to  dye;  keep  them  stirring  in  the  dye  about  fifteen  minutes;  then  take  out  your 
cloth,  or  goods,  and  put  in  one  gallon  of  urine,  and  one  pound  of  Nicaragua,  two  ounces  of 
roasted  verdigrise;  let  them  boil  half  an  hour;  take  your  cloth  out,  cool  it,  then  add  half  a 
pound  of  Roman  vitriol  to  the  dye;  stir  your  dye  well,  and  dip  your  cloth  for  the  space  of  one 

21 


hour;  have  your  dye  so  hot  as  to  boil;  take  our  your  cloth  and  rinse  it  for  dressing.  By  this 
method  you  may  dye  thread  as  black  as  black  silk. 


For  Butternut  Color 

For  twenty  yards  of  fulled  cloth  or  thirty  or  thin,  take  three  bushels  of  green  bark, 
whcih  has  been  shaved  from  the  wood  but  a  few  days  before  use;  in  the  next  place  fill  your 
copper  with  clean  water;  if  you  have  no  copper,  iron  will  answer  the  same  purpose;  put 
your  bark  in  the  same  vessel,  and  let  it  steep  about  three  hours,  keep  your  fire  as  hot  as 
you  can;  then  take  your  bark  out  and  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour;  take  up  and  cool;  then  run 
it  one  hour;  take  your  cloth  up  and  cool  it  over  the  folding  board;  put  into  your  dye  three 
gallons  of  urine,  stir  it  will,  and  sun  your  cloth  half  an  hour,  take  it  up  and  put  into  your  dye 
two  and  an  half  pounds  of  good  green  copperas;  bring  your  dye  to  boil,  and  take  off  the  filth 
that  rises  on  the  dye;  run  your  cloth  half  an  hour;  cool  your  cloth  and  rinse  it  well  for 
dressing. 


For  staining  wood  Red 

Take  one  pound  of  Nicaragua  wood,  one  pound  red  wood,  both  cut  fine,  and  put  into 
a  clean  brass  kettle  to  which  add  two  gallons  of  water;  let  it  boil  till  the  strength  is  out,  take 
out  the  chips,  and  put  in  one  ounce  of  Allum  -  boil  this  till  it  makes  a  good  red  on  the  wood 
by  dying  it  then  three  times  in  a  place,  letting  the  stain  dry  between  times,  turning  it  on  till  it 
makes  good  red.  Stain  and  brush  it  over  three  times,  when  the  stain  is  hot. 


To  make  a  Japan  Varnish  on  Wood 

Take  three  ounces  gum  shallock,  make  it  fine  and  put  into  a  quart  glass  bottle  -  put 
in  one  pint  of  strong  spirits  of  wine,  and  set  in  the  sun  -  shake  the  bottle  every  little  time,  for 
two  hours,  and  the  gum  will  be  disolved,  observing  to  have  your  bottle  stopped,  excepting  a 
small  hole  in  the  stopper,  the  size  of  a  small  wire,  to  give  vent;  when  the  varnish  is  still 
warm,  strain  it  through  a  fine  cloth,  then  put  it  in  a  clean  glass  bottle  and  add  there  to  tow 
ounces  of  turpentine,  shake  it  well  and  then  it  is  completed. 


To  lay  the  above  Varnish. 

Have  a  large  phial17,  that  will  hold  a  pint,  put  it  two  thirds  full  of  the  varnish,  and  lay  it 


<Lat.  phiala,  shallow  vessel  <GK.  phiale.]  A  vial. 

22 


in  a  warm  sand  heap,  then  take  in  a  warm  room  by  a  fire,  and  brush  the  varnish  with  a  soft 
brush  over  the  wood  several  times,  till  you  procure  a  good  coat.  If  the  varnish  should  be 
too  thick,  thin  it  with  spirits  of  turpentine;  fill  your  brush,  and  if  you  should  want  it  still  more 
moist,  take  some  rotten  stone18  and  fine  chalf,  with  water,  and  rub  it  on  the  wood,  as  thick 
as  paint,  then  rub  it  with  woolen  cloth,  which  will  make  it  smooth.  After  it  has  stood  two 
days,  rub  it  again,  and  a  bright  varnish  will  remain. 


To  make  Cherry  Wood  the  color  of  Mahogany 

Take  two  ounces  of  Spanish  brown,  one  of  red  lead,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
vermillion,  and  half  an  ounce  of  spruce  yellow,  all  made  fine;  sift  in  clean  water,  and  make 
it  thick  as  you  can  pour  it  -  then  take  a  woolen  cloth,  and  dip  it  therto  and  rub  your  work; 
and  the  more  you  rub  the  work,  the  better  it  will  appear.  When  this  is  done  wipe  off  the 
polishing,  then  you  will  gain  the  color,  and  you  may  varnish  your  work  and  polish  it. 


To  make  good  Blue 


.19 


Take  one  ounce  isinglass  ,  pounded  fine,  and  disolve  two  ounces  of  good  glue  in 
one  quart  of  water,  and  strain  the  isinglass  with  the  glue,  into  a  small  pot  or  vessel;  put  one 
spoonful  of  allum  therto,  and  boil  them  all  together. 


To  stain  wood  a  light  Mahogany 

Brush  the  wood  three  times  (omitting  the  logwood)  with  the  spirits  of  wine/ 

To  stain  wood  a  light  Orange  color. 


A  friable  variety  of  tripoli,  the  product  of  decomposed  siliceous  limestone,  used  for  polishing. 

19 

A  transparent,  almost  pure  gelatin  prepared  from  the  air  bladder  of  certain  fishes,  as  the  sturgeon, 
or  The  mineral  muscovite. 

20 

Rectified  ethyl  alcohol. 


23 


the  wood  will  be  stained. 

To  prepare  Lineseed  Oil  for  Painting. 

Put  a  gallon  of  oil  in  a  clean  kettle  -put  in  four  ounces  of  gold  litharge23,  four  ounces 
of  red  lead,  four  ounces  of  sugar  of  lead  4,  and  one  ounce  of  rosin  made  fine;  put  this 
over  a  moderate  fire  -  stir  your  oil  for  two  hours,  keeping  it  as  hot  as  possible  without 
burning.  When  it  is  done  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  let  it  settle,  and  turn  off  all  but  the 
sediment. 

To  Slack  Verdigrise  to  Grind  easy. 

Take  one  peck  of  sand  and  put  in  a  kettle;  hang  it  over  a  fire,  stiring  it  all  the  time  for 
half  an  hour;  then  put  in  water  sufficiently  to  make  it  moist;  let  it  be  bloodwarm;  take  your 
verdigrise  and  beat  it  to  pieces  as  small  as  a  walnut;  put  four  ounces  of  it  into  four 
thicknesses  of  brown  paper,  and  bury  it  in  the  sand;  let  it  remain  in  this  situation  for  four 
hours;  then  take  it  out  and  it  will  be  as  soft  as  white  lead.25 

To  Paint  Green 

Take  white  lead  and  lampblack26,  an  equal  quantity,  and  grind  them  in  oil; 
previously  putting  on  your  priming. 


23 

A  yellow  lead  oxide,  PbO,  used  as  a  pigment  and  in  glass  and  storage  batteries. 
Lead  acetate. 

25 

A  heavy  white  poisonous  compound  of  basic  lead  carbonate,  lead  silicate,  or  lead  sulfate,  used  in 
paint  pigments. 

A  grey  or  black  pigment  made  from  soot  obtained  from  the  incomplete  combustion  of 
carbonaceous  materials  used  as  a  pigment  and  in  matches,  explosives,  lubricants,  and  fertilizers. 


25 


To  Paint  with  Verdigrise. 

Take  verdigrise  and  add  thereto  a  small  quanity  of  white  lead,  and  grind  it  with  the 
oil  prepared  in  the  manner  before  mentioned. 


To  Paint  Green. 


Take  verdigrise  and  grind  it  with  oil  aforesaid,  and  lighten  the  color  with  white  lead; 
but  in  the  first  place  paint  your  work  with  white  lead  and  lampblack. 


To  Paint  Stone  Grey. 

Take  the  oil  prepared  as  before  mentioned,  and  grind  it  with  white  lead;  put  stone  - 
enough  into  the  same 
color  to  a  proper  stone  grey. 


yellow  enough  into  the  same  to  bring  it  to  a  proper  thinness;  put  in  vermillion27  to  bring  the 


To  Paint  an  Ague  Blue. 


.28 


Take  Prussian  blue  and  grind  it  fine  and  thin  -  mix  it  with  white  lead  and  make  the 
color  to  your  liking.  Prussian  blue  will  make  your  color  more  deep;  white  lead  will  make  it 
more  light. 


To  Paint  Flesh  color,  or  Peach  Blue 

al  quantity  of  white  lead  at 
may  make  any  shade  of  rich  blue  you  please 


Take  an  equal  quantity  of  white  lead  and  red  lead29,  mix  these  together,  and  you 


27 

A  bright  red  mercuric  sulfide  used  as  a  pigment. 

(A)   An  insoluble  dark-blue  pigment  and  dye,  ferric  ferrocyanide  or  one  of  its  modifications.  (B) 
Iron  blue.  (C)  A  moderate  to  strong  blue  or  deep  greenish  blue. 

29 

A  bright  red  powder,  Ph304,  used  in  paints,  glass,  pottery  and  pipe-joint  packing. 

26 


To  Paint  a  Red  Brown. 

Take  two  thirds  Spanish  brown,  and  one  third  lead;  grind  it  with  oil,  in  any  quantity 
you  please. 


To  Paint  Black. 

Take  lampblack,  and  a  small  quantity  of  Prussian  Blue,  and  grind  them  in  oil. 

To  lay  Gold  Leaf30  on  Carved  or  Moulding  Work. 

Take  stone  yellow  and  white  lead,  an  equal  quantity  and  grind  it  fine  with  old  oil; 
brush  this  composition  smooth  over  your  work  twice-  let  it  stand  twenty-foru  hours  afterthe 
last  brushing,  and  then  cut  your  leaf  in  proper  form  on  a  leather  cushion  ,  with  a  sharp 
knife;  then  take  up  your  leaf  on  cotton  wool  and  put  it  on  your  work.  A  light  brush  over  the 
work  after  the  gold  is  on,  will  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  work. 

To  make  Black  Ink. 

Take  one  quart  of  rain  water,  or  the  same  quantity  with  ripe  walnut  shooks  (sic) 
soaked  in  it,  or  a  quart  of  water  with  oak  saw-dust  soaked  therein;  strain  it  off  clear  into 
some  vessel;  add  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  live  oak31  galls  -  two  ounces  of  good  copperas, 
and  two  ounces  of  gum  arabic32;  put  it  in  a  bottle;  stop  it  tight  and  shake  it  well  every  day 
till  the  ink  is  fit  for  use.  The  older  your  ink  grows  the  better  it  will  be.  The  articles  must  be 
all  pulverized  before  they  are  pput  into  the  water.  To  keep  the  above  ink  from  freezing,  put 
a  little  spirits  of  any  kind  into  it  -  to  preserve  it  from  moulding,  put  in  a  little  salt. 

To  make  Red  Ink. 


30 

Gold  beaten  into  very  thin  sheets  used  especially  for  gilding. 

31 

An  everygreen  American  Oak  of  the  southeastern  United  States. 

32 

A  gum  exuded  by  an  African  tree  of  the  genus  Acacia,  esp.  A  Senegal,  used  in  preparing  pills  and 
emulsions  in  manufacturing  mucilage  and  dandies,  and  as  a  thickener  and  colloidal  stabilizer. 

27 


Take  three  pints  of  sour  beer,  or  vinegar,  and  four  ounces  of  ground  brazil  wood; 
simmer  them  together  for  an  hour;  then  strain  off  and  bottle  the  liquor,  making  your  bottle 
tight,  till  fit  for  use;  or  you  may  dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  gum  Senegal  or  arabid,  in  half  a 
pint  of  water;  then  put  three  pence  worth  of  vermillion  into  a  small  earthen  vessel,  and 
pour  the  gum  water  to  it,  and  stir  it  till  it  is  well  mixed  together,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use  in 
twenty-four  hours,  but  requires  stirring  before  using. 


To  make  Common  Strong  Beer. 

To  thirty  gallons  of  water,  put  one  gallon  of  molasses,  take  eight  ounces  of  hops, 
and  boil  the  strength  out,  then  mix  the  same  with  the  water  and  molasses,  then  strain  the 
whole,  and  after  standing  two  weeks  the  beer  will  be  fit  for  use. 


28 


87761033515  i 

0B/07/0G  41245    »> 


